Re: The D-SLR Discussion

Thanks for the advice. I got my hands on the cameras today, and decided to go with the t5i. It's quite nice, for the few hours I've been playing with it. It'll definitely take some getting used to and a lot of playing around with to get really comfortable. As for the AF-points, I decided that the only time I would ever need them is when I am taking really quick pictures, in which case I'd not be worrying about the framing. The rest of the time, I'll probably end up using manual focus, so the AF-points are pointless in that case. And the extra 6 megapixels are pointless for what I'm doing, and weren't worth $200 dollars more.

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Re: The D-SLR Discussion

Bumpity-bump.

OK, so I have a question.  I kinda need a new camera as my setup thus far has been a basic point-and-shoot set on a 1-second delay, which is frankly horrible, so I'm considering getting a DSLR.  Right now I'm leaning towards the Canon T3i, as this seems to be a popular/inexpensive choice.  I'm kinda confused, however; whenever I search "Canon T3i" on Amazon I get "1100D" as a result.  From what I've understood the T2i is also referred to as the 500D and the T3i as the 600D, so what is the 1100D?  And what is the difference (if any) in price and features?  If someone could clear this up for me I would be most grateful.

Secondly, will I also need a macro lens for brickfilming with a DSLR, and, if so, which one is good/affordable?  Looking at the prices, most lenses seem to be just as expensive, if not more, than the camera bodies, and I'd really like to save moniez where possible.  Right now I'm trying to research it out but all I'm seeing is a bunch of random names with strings of letters and numbers attached to them (bearing in mind I've only recently started to look into this and I've barely learned what the shutter speed, ISO and f-stop are).  From what I've heard it would seem best to go with one that has a manual focus seeing as this would prevent light flicker (and possibly give the ability to make some interesting brickfilming effects) but again, I'm pretty new to this so any help/explanation would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

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Re: The D-SLR Discussion

It depends on your region, it's the Reble T3i in North America, the 600D in Europe and KISS X5 in Japan. I use the Canon SL1 which is the worlds smallest DSLR if you are interested in a compact shooting solution (but with no fold out LCD)

First questions is do you have Dragonframe (or Stop Motion Pro) Before I had Dragonframe and used a DSLR I just used a shutter release and shot blind, which doesn't really take full advantage of the live view.

The next hidden cost is the AC adaptor, you can get off brands for around $20 which seem to have mixed reviews on Amazon, I have a Canon adaptor, it was $60

For micro lens I would suggest the Micro-Nikkor-PC Auto 55mm F3.5 it runs from about $60 - $120, it is one of the sharpest lenses ever made, in adition to the lens you need a Nikon to Canon lens adaptor, this will run $30 to $70, I got a cheap $30 adaptor which works fine, but I have heard the cheaper adapters can create issues if you are shooting video (a bit of unwanted wiggle), Dragonframe recommends this adapter which looks good.

If you do get a Nikon lens I recommend getting a set of lens extension tubes for close ups, you should be fine with off brand tubes, I have the PK-1, PK-2, and PK-3 with are Nikons old, hard to find tubes and it was probibly a little wasteful to spend the time and money collecting there tubes when I could have got cheaper off brand tubes that would have worked the same.

As you continue to shoot with a DSLR you will want to buy more lenses, if you use Nikon lenses off ebay they will run about $100 - $200, before buying lenses look them up a Ken Rockwell's site, lots of great info there.

Re: The D-SLR Discussion

110D is the T3. I own both the T3 and T3i. The T3i is DEFINITELY worth it. The only difference with the T4i is a Digic 5 image processor (whereas the T3i has a digic 4, but still kicks butt!). Also, dont buy the kit lens, buy the body only andd then use that leftover  money (and save) up for a much better, high quality lens.

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Re: The D-SLR Discussion

If you do plan to go the route of buying Nikon lens for a Canon body you may want to just get the camera with a kit lens, it won't be the best, but for general purpose photography it can be nice to have a auto focus zoom lens, I already had an older canon kit lens when I got my SL1 so I just got the body, I would like to get the 40mm f/2.8 for some general purpose photography when I want some more automated options.

Re: The D-SLR Discussion

Hey Sloth, question about using Nikon lenses on Canon bodies. Can your lenses focus to infinity when being used cross brand? I've heard a lot about problems caused by incorrect distance between the sensor and the back element of the lens. It's not really a problem for brickfilming, but I'm starting to do some other stop motion that may require focusing to infinity, and I also like being able to use all of my lenses for normal photography as well, since that's my other art along with animation.

Re: The D-SLR Discussion

I wasn't quite sure so I went out a did a little test. I took a photo of the top of a building at it seemed that when I set the lens to infinity it would focus past the building, however if you dial the focus back a little it apears you can focus to infinity, it's just a little trickier, the viewfinder works better then the live view.

http://i.imgur.com/mYBy2aN.jpg

This is a crop (unscaled just a 500x500 piece) of the image when I dialed the focus back. That is at least 20 stories up so it should be past infinity, but maybe it's not, I just looked at the lens again and I though it went from 20ft to infinity, but it was 20 meters, so I might need to do more tests.

Edit:
The details are Nikkor 105mm f/2.5, 1/15 sec exposure, at f/2.5, ISO 400 (cropped from an 18mpx image)

Re: The D-SLR Discussion

Thanks for the advice!  Sorry for getting back a bit late.

Anyway, I talked to a guy in a camera store, who was super helpful.  He recommended going for the Canon 700D, which is the direction I was leaning towards anyway.  (Canon is supposed to be better in terms of video capability, amongst other things, and it's possible I may do live-action at some point in the future.  I may also end up trying out still photography as well.)  He also said that a 50mm 1.8 lens plus some extension tubes could be used in place of a macro lens, which seems like a good idea seeing as it'd be quite a bit cheaper and I wish to save as much money as possible. 

SlothPaladin wrote:

First questions is do you have Dragonframe (or Stop Motion Pro) Before I had Dragonframe and used a DSLR I just used a shutter release and shot blind, which doesn't really take full advantage of the live view.

I don't actually use animation software; I animate blind and put the frames directly into my editor (Sony Vegas).  I don't have a camera compatible with any animation software, plus my laptop is a dinosaur that is horribly slow and still runs Windows XP, so it's not really practical.  At this point I use a point-and-shoot camera with autofocus, which is absolutely horrible, so I really need some better equipment.  Dragonframe definitely sounds interesting, and I certainly intend to look into it, particularly as I'll be getting a new laptop soon-ish, but for now my priority is a better camera (as basically anything would be better than my current animation setup).

For micro lens I would suggest the Micro-Nikkor-PC Auto 55mm F3.5 it runs from about $60 - $120, it is one of the sharpest lenses ever made, in adition to the lens you need a Nikon to Canon lens adaptor, this will run $30 to $70, I got a cheap $30 adaptor which works fine, but I have heard the cheaper adapters can create issues if you are shooting video (a bit of unwanted wiggle), Dragonframe recommends this adapter which looks good.

I'm curious, is there any particular reason to go for a Nikon lens as opposed to a Canon lens?  As I said before, I want to save as much money as possible, and a Nikon lens plus adapters seems to get pretty pricey quite quickly.  I looked up the lens adapters you linked on Amazon.co.uk, and it says they're around £160--upwards of $250--which is definitely past my budget for the time being.  On the other hand, I looked up extension tubes on eBay and I've seen them for sale for around £20 from sellers who have lots of good feedback.

Either way, right now I have to earn enough money to actually buy a DSLR....

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Re: The D-SLR Discussion

The reason for the Nikon lens is flicker, when the camera takes a photo it lets the f-stop drop to whatever you specified, because it's doing this very fast the apturer might be slightly different, especially at higher f-stops life f/16-32 which if you do plan on using lens extensions you probably won't want to use any f-stop under f/11.

You may be able to partially unscrew the lens of the camera if it has manual f/stop options, which you can do on a Nikon easily but I don't know about the Canon lens, but it looks like some of the nicer lens have the , see if the camera tech at your store will let you try taking a photo with the lens partially unscrewed, which would remove any kind of flicker.

Also I recommend extension rings, they are great, but they give you CRAZY bokeh, long exposures at high f-stops are the norm.

You might be able to get a cheap adapter ring (you only need one) from China or something, mine was $35 (~21 GBP), it works for animation, but it could be better, watch for wobble on focus pulls

Re: The D-SLR Discussion

Okay, I've done some research, and it seems that Nikkor lenses mounted onto Canon EOS cameras should be able to focus just fine to infinity, assuming that the adapter used is the correct width, which is 2.5mm. Also, another option to Nikon are lenses with an M42 mount. I use some old manual focus Pentax lenses, and I love them. What brand you get really just depends on what you can manage to find in your price range.

Re: The D-SLR Discussion

Yes, I've never had infinity focus problem with old Nikkor prime lenses on EOS cameras, and I have shot with Nikkor lenses on Canon cameras many times with many different models. Fotodiox adapters work fine for me, though they are fussier to get on and off than I'm told the much more expensive adapters are.

There are some very cool M42 lenses out there. I love the Helios 44-2 58mm's look and you can get one of those for $30-50 on eBay.

http://i.imgur.com/wcmcdmf.png

Re: The D-SLR Discussion

I just looked that Helios up, I may need to buy one, I really like the look that it gives using a shallow depth of field.

Re: The D-SLR Discussion

Helios is the way to go for manual lenses (especially for low budget). I've used probably over ten Helios lenses so far on Canons, and they are magnificent!

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Re: The D-SLR Discussion

Is there a good way to find them other than buying from ebay sellers in eastern Europe, or is that pretty much the only place to find them?

Re: The D-SLR Discussion

I've only used ebay, but occasionally you can find US residents selling them. also, try this website. I've heard you can order from them. But note, I've never bought from top35, and I don't know how close they come to beating Ebay prices. But that is another option mini/smile

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Re: The D-SLR Discussion

Interesting to see (after actually reading some of the thread) that Sloth ran into infinity focus issues on Nikkors. I confess I rarely focus to infinity and perhaps I have been focusing back a hair from infinity on the ring to get to true infinity focus without really thinking about it. Either way, it is achievable, just not so easy to rack into it in a live action rack focus shot or something.

I have two Russian lenses, a Mir-1B 37mm f/2.8 and a Helios 44-2 58mm f/2, I got both from Eastern Europe via eBay and they were in good condition matching the descriptions. The prices on top35 appear not to be very competitive with the (great) prices I got buying that way, though it looks like some of them include adapters. The trick with eBay is to buy from sellers who sell a lot of lenses and give thorough descriptions of the condition their lenses are in. The good sellers are likely to give you specific details. If they just say it has a few scratches but works great, that's not a very encouraging sign.

Of the lenses I've bought over eBay, only one was in inadequate condition that didn't really match the description, thankfully that was in the US and I was able to send it back for a full refund. I will say if you're buying Nikkor lenses, KEH is really competitive compared to eBay prices, but does a great job of making sure the lenses are in good condition. I would probably go with KEH over eBay if they had what I want, but they don't offer Helios lenses.

http://i.imgur.com/wcmcdmf.png

Re: The D-SLR Discussion

So, will a Russian lens (like a Helios) fit in a modern Nikon camera, or does one need to buy a separate adapter to make the lens connect? (you guys have gotten me interested in lenses, haha)

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Re: The D-SLR Discussion

Nikons are the hardest lenses to adapt to properly, having looked into this exact predicament recently. The problem is that Nikon cameras have a longer flange distance than almost any other lens mount. Because of this, the Helios lenses (m42 mount) are just slightly too short a flange to fit properly on a Nikon.

Nevertheless, there are two ways to adapt m42 lenses like the Helios to Nikon cameras. One is to use a nikon to m42 adapter that has a piece of glass in it, allowing you to use the lens like normal, but with a piece of crappy glass correcting the focus and making the image quite soft and blurry at wide apertures. The second is to use a little ring with no glass, which will give you a good image, but can't focus properly beyond about 4 meters (the extra length of the flange acts like a tiny extension tube, preventing infinity focus). That will pretty much never matter in a brickfilm, of course.

http://i.imgur.com/wcmcdmf.png

Re: The D-SLR Discussion

Ok, so I took a gamble and bought a Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 lens from ebay, and finally got my Fotodiox lens adapter in the mail so I can try it out. The problem is, the lens adapter is having a very hard time going onto my Nikon D3100. I can turn it 3/4 of the way, but it gets stuck and just wont turn anymore. if I turn it slightly the other way, though, it will come right off. I have been on Google for an hour trying to figure out how to attach this lens adapter to my camera, but with no luck. Sméagol, do you have any tips for attaching the lens adapter? You said earlier "Fotodiox adapters work fine for me, though they are fussier to get on and off than I'm told the much more expensive adapters are."

Thanks,

-rioforce

EDIT: This is the lens adapter I bought:

http://www.fotodioxpro.com/m42-lens-to- … apter.html

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Re: The D-SLR Discussion

rioforce wrote:

Ok, so I took a gamble and bought a Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 lens from ebay, and finally got my Fotodiox lens adapter in the mail so I can try it out. The problem is, the lens adapter is having a very hard time going onto my Nikon D3100. I can turn it 3/4 of the way, but it gets stuck and just wont turn anymore. if I turn it slightly the other way, though, it will come right off. I have been on Google for an hour trying to figure out how to attach this lens adapter to my camera, but with no luck. Sméagol, do you have any tips for attaching the lens adapter? You said earlier "Fotodiox adapters work fine for me, though they are fussier to get on and off than I'm told the much more expensive adapters are."

Thanks,

-rioforce

EDIT: This is the lens adapter I bought:

http://www.fotodioxpro.com/m42-lens-to- … apter.html

put the adapter on your lens, then try screwing it onto your camera. That's how I do it.

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