Bricks in Motion
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So I'm thinking of using the Canon EOS Rebel XS 10.1 MP Digital SLR Camera, which is an old camera but from what I've found out SEEMS to take good pictures. Sadly I'm not completely positive on what kind of camera I should use for animating. Any help? 
I prefer to use a DSLR, because of high resolution of the pictures and a lot of manual controls for light, focus and much much more...
I have an 18 MP compact camera from Nikon and it works well, but I'm planning to buy a DSLR. As I said above, DSLRs have more options than compacts and also, you can buy a controller for them which makes the job easier and avoids the small moves of camera.
But there's something you should remember about DSLRs: They're too BIG and HEAVY 
Last edited by Shahriar (August 20, 2016 (06:30am))
First: budget. What do you want to pay? Do you already have a camera, or are you wanting to buy one?
Second: Webcam or DSLR? "Camera" is a generic term, so in stop-motion land, we divide this into two categories: Webcam and DSLR. The Logitech c920 is an excellent webcam. DSLRs will take a bit more deduction to figure out which is best.
After those are answered we'll be able to help you more.
Keep in mind there are pros and cons to both webcams and DSLRs.
DSLRs are the best for serious stop-mo, but are a huge investment beyond just the camera. There's tripod, software, lenses, etc etc. Once you start, you can't stop. Yes, DSLRs are larger and heavier than webcams, but that's no con in my book. You just need to know how to handle them. It's far less likely you're going to set your DSLR on a desk like you would a webcam, so you need more space for the tripod and stuff.
Webcams are small and compact. They have somewhat good quality (like I said, the c920 is THE BEST). However, your lighting has to work with webcams because of their censors, they hate low-light. There's more software available for webcams, unlike DSLRs, so that's definitely a pro for webcams.
But please please PLEASE do NOT get a point-and-shoot camera (like a Canon PowerShot, a Nikon compact, or something like that). They usually do NOT have manual settings, most software don't support them, and they (yet again) aren't great for setting on a table.
If you're leaning toward DSLR, please get a Canon. Nikon cameras (at least, the lower end ones which don't cost thousands of dollars) have lots of issues with lenses and software connection. Canons are pretty much THE camera when it comes to stop-motion. As the the Canon XS, it looks a bit old, so you'll have to check with your software to see if it works with the camera. Most DSLRs have good quality, even if they are a bit older, but of course, the most recent ones (generally speaking) have the best censors, thus are better. I know that I can recommend the SL1, and others have recommended the T2i.
As Rio described so concisely, there are pros and cons to both breeds of camera. I would like to separately point out that if you have any interest in media BEYOND stop motion, be it photography or any kind of videography, go ahead an get a DSLR. If you want to do media, it will be an invaluable asset.
I've used my friend's Nikon D7100 and it worked fine. Also, Nikon D3300 and D5300 seem to have the required specs.
Yet I'm confused to buy a Nikon or a Canon.
I guess you'd have to explain what you mean by "worked fine". Were you using it with capture software? Incompatibility with software is mainly why Nikon cameras don't work for stop-mo.
Also, Nikon cameras have a longer flange distance, causing the lenses (that is, non-nikon lenses) to be farther away from the censor, limiting the infinity focus way down (on my Helios lens, it restricts the max focus to only 2 meters).
For Nikon lenses on Nikon cameras, there is an issue where the aperture doesn't snap the the exact same spot every time, causing aperture flicker (as seen in Squid's old videos). While manual lenses can solve this, a lot of manual lenses have a spring loaded aperture with a small lever on the back that is compatible with even the new Nikon cameras, causing that same issue unless you modify the lens or only put it on halfway.
That's not to say that Canon cameras are perfect, but they do have a much higher success rate than Nikons in the stop-motion world.
Last edited by rioforce (August 20, 2016 (02:30pm))
I second everything that rio has said, and it's not just brickfilmers that prefer Canon over Nikon; all the big studios like Aardman and Laika use Canon DSLR's. Although it's certainly old, I think the XS is suitable for stop-motion; it has live view, so it should be compatible with any software that supports DSLR's. I'd double check before you buy anything, though.
First: budget. What do you want to pay? Do you already have a camera, or are you wanting to buy one?
Second: Webcam or DSLR? "Camera" is a generic term, so in stop-motion land, we divide this into two categories: Webcam and DSLR. The Logitech c920 is an excellent webcam. DSLRs will take a bit more deduction to figure out which is best.
After those are answered we'll be able to help you more.
Keep in mind there are pros and cons to both webcams and DSLRs.
DSLRs are the best for serious stop-mo, but are a huge investment beyond just the camera. There's tripod, software, lenses, etc etc. Once you start, you can't stop. Yes, DSLRs are larger and heavier than webcams, but that's no con in my book. You just need to know how to handle them. It's far less likely you're going to set your DSLR on a desk like you would a webcam, so you need more space for the tripod and stuff.
Webcams are small and compact. They have somewhat good quality (like I said, the c920 is THE BEST). However, your lighting has to work with webcams because of their censors, they hate low-light. There's more software available for webcams, unlike DSLRs, so that's definitely a pro for webcams.
But please please PLEASE do NOT get a point-and-shoot camera (like a Canon PowerShot, a Nikon compact, or something like that). They usually do NOT have manual settings, most software don't support them, and they (yet again) aren't great for setting on a table.
If you're leaning toward DSLR, please get a Canon. Nikon cameras (at least, the lower end ones which don't cost thousands of dollars) have lots of issues with lenses and software connection. Canons are pretty much THE camera when it comes to stop-motion. As the the Canon XS, it looks a bit old, so you'll have to check with your software to see if it works with the camera. Most DSLRs have good quality, even if they are a bit older, but of course, the most recent ones (generally speaking) have the best censors, thus are better. I know that I can recommend the SL1, and others have recommended the T2i.
My budget is $800 or lower. I actually don't have a camera, i use an stop motion app on my phone. But I am leaning towards DSLR, so I might follow your advice and look into a Canon and look for a compatible animating/editing software
Plus just to make sure: I'm looking at this animating software and it says it is compatible with Canon, does this mean it works with DSLR?
Never mind about the second question
I guess you'd have to explain what you mean by "worked fine". Were you using it with capture software? Incompatibility with software is mainly why Nikon cameras don't work for stop-mo.
Also, Nikon cameras have a longer flange distance, causing the lenses (that is, non-nikon lenses) to be farther away from the censor, limiting the infinity focus way down (on my Helios lens, it restricts the max focus to only 2 meters).
For Nikon lenses on Nikon cameras, there is an issue where the aperture doesn't snap the the exact same spot every time, causing aperture flicker (as seen in Squid's old videos). While manual lenses can solve this, a lot of manual lenses have a spring loaded aperture with a small lever on the back that is compatible with even the new Nikon cameras, causing that same issue unless you modify the lens or only put it on halfway.
That's not to say that Canon cameras are perfect, but they do have a much higher success rate than Nikons in the stop-motion world.
Yes. I used Dragonframe and it worked. There was only one problem; the screen went blue after capturing some frames, though I think that was Dragonframe's problem because it happened when I used webcam too.
Thanks for your great tips 
. I'm going to search between Canons.
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