I don't think the Nikon is the source of your flicker. Do you have any examples of the flicker and would you Care to elaborate on what you've done to minimize it. What is the process of your brickfilming? Do you have the camera hooked up to a computer? What software do you use? What lenses? lighting? Do you use Manual Settings on your Nikon? What settings do you usually use? Is the camera on a tripod? Is there a window in the room shining daylight? Are you waering white shirts that could be reflecting light to the set and since you're not in the same location in each frame it causes flicker? Just some thoughts...

I agree with the others, just because you seem to have a problem with your camera doesn't mean you should just go and buy one straight away. A camera is an important decision and shouldn't be rushed. I spent 4 months looking at different Canon cameras seeing which ones would best suit me. However, I must say that it could very well be your camera, as I am aware that Nikon DSLRs (and most old ones) have a tendency to have light flicker, and it can also be caused by an automatic lens (it would be good to know what lenses you have and how old they are). If you find that there is also some issues with your depth of field, then it is likely that your lens is the problem, and the problem is likely to be that the aperture gets stuck and doesn't go back to the same position for each picture. Other problems that may cause light flicker are electricity issues, like the plugs not giving a constant flow of energy to the lights, meaning that the power of the light will vary. Also, it is known for mirrors to sometimes cause light flicker, so make sure to cover up any that are in your room.

I'm not too sure on this point (would be great if someone could correct me if I'm wrong) but I think if you are getting the 'bars' going across your screen when you say light flicker, then it is probably any LED lights that you are using. I know I had a pair of LED lights which were absolutely terrible unless you were using them for photography and weren't planning to take too may pictures of the same thing in the same place.

For cameras (if you do need to buy one), I am using the Canon 700D (Rebel T5i if you live in America). The cheapest that I have found it on amazon is about £400, so you should definitely have the money to buy it. I had also looked at the 60D, 400D (Rebel XTi), 550D (Rebel T2i), 600D (Rebel T3i), 1000D (Rebel XS) and 1100D (Rebel T3). The reason why I chose the 700D is because it can get fairly close to minifigures with the standard kit lens. It can work with a wireless remote (which I believe is a feature not present in the 1000D/1100D) and has 18 megapixels, the best out of all the cameras that I have mentioned (although the 60D, 550D and 600D also have 18)`. It was also one of the cheapest cameras of the lot (only being beaten I think by the 400D - which was my second option, the 1100D and perhaps the 1000D). It had been recommended to me by several people, and I know that there were other brickfilmers who had used and had made some amazing brickfilms. The only main problem I had with the camera was that it has a pretty short battery life compared to the others (only the 400D had a lower battery life) however this was not too big of an issue as I currently use an AC Adapter so it doesn't run out of charge. I would definitely recommend purchasing one.

I hope this helps. the sky has actually gone significantly dark since I first started writing this

I've not had any light flicker problems since using my camera (Aside from one situation which was due to a faulty bulb).

By the way, what madness drove you to getting 7 lights?!?! Isn't that a bit excessive?!

Also (others can share their opinions) I have always found fluorescent lights to be a lot better than LEDs when it comes to daylight bulbs.

Question for everyone. Which type of daylight bulbs are better, white or blue? I've always thought that the blue ones were a lot better but now I'm not too sure. I currently have two white daylight bulbs but my main light has a blue one. Let me know what you think

I sort of disagree with the respondents here and feel that you've done a pretty good job of locating the issue as with the camera.
Have you taken steps to disable the aperture, possibly by disconnecting the lens? is the issue still there with the extension tubes?
Do any of the lenses you've tried have a manual aperture ring?

I can't really offer advice on Canons, but I will say that if you're determined to get a different camera and have DragonFrame4 it might be worth looking at a mirrorless camera depending on what else you would use the camera for.

I also think that it's a myth that LED's cause flicker, as I have never had or seen an issue with anything besides faulty bulbs or Christmas lights.

“But the enterprise in which I’m about to embark on is fraught with imminent peril.”

Hey guys thanks for all the great feedback! So I'm using 3 Lenses. 1 is the nikon dx AF-S nikkor 18-55 mm 1:3.5-5.6 G2. this lens gets bad flicker. I did one session with the f/32 and shutter at 2'. the camera gets flicker. then another session with the f/8 and the shutter at 1/20. when the shutter was higher the flicker got worse almost. my next lens micro-nikkor-p auto 1:3.5 f=55mm. this is an older lens i picked up. It has the manual aperture ring. this lens still gets flicker but less then the first one i mentioned. last but not least the nikon micro-nikkor 105mm manual lens. Again this lens as well I get flicker. I have even tested my webcam to make sure that it was not the lights or anything else, and using the webcam there is no flicker. when I'm connected to dragon frames live view, when i turn the aperture to the max setting 32 at the top of the screen it gets very fuzzy. the more it is lowered the fuzzy goes away and that's when the flicker is reduced somewhat. Also I have 3 extension tubes 32mm 20mm and 12mm, all which did nothing to reduce or rid the flicker. there was an older comment on this site i found of a user using a Nikon d3100 with the same issues. after everyone's advice he said he still had a flicker fest. Also Brotherhood workshop who i'm sure most of you know, on one of his behind the scenes somebody made a comment about his camera, and he stated he had a nikon 40 but upgraded to the T2i because the nikon had really bad flicker. Buying a new camera is not what I really want to do cause I really like this camera. But 95% of its for brickfilming so in that case its kinda useless cause flicker is just a nuisance. If i were just taking pictures of sets or using it for regular photography it is amazing! Also to dragon bricks comment yes the 7 lights is a bit much ,but I am shooting on a large table with a green screen so 4 of those lights are just to light up the backdrop so is easier to chroma key. Also dragon brick the 700d-t5i is actually one i was looking into to buy. Have you shot at a really high ap in the high 20's and 30's and got no shutter flicker? so that's basically where i'm at, do I sell my nikon and get a canon?? Thanks guys for listening and any other advice anyone might have would be good to hear or maybe people who have nikons with the same issues?

I just gave your method a try with the lens not connected to the camera body. Sadly it didn't fix it:| . I then decided to take pictures from my cell phone moto4 21mp camera. I took 20 pictures then uploaded them put them in Sony Vegas and played them. No flicker at all. So my 7 LED lights for sure are not causing the problem. Now I do have a question, when you guys use dragon frame and are looking at the live view does it get get fuzzy/noise the higher your apetures are set at? If not maybe the connection from the camera to the PC is causing some sort of flicker?? Might be a dumb question but you never know.

If it still happens with the lens disconnected that's really weird, have you tried exactly matching the settings you used on the phone? Are you sure that the ISO is on manual? Is Active D lighting turned off? Is there any HDR or ADL turned on? or some kind of auto image enhance?

“But the enterprise in which I’m about to embark on is fraught with imminent peril.”