You should switch it to M. That gives you full control of the settings and look for your picture.

Thanks all for your help, I've just done a quick test and there isn't any light flicker issues. Sorry again for the poor quality gif;

After fiddling with the settings regarding white balance and exposure I've come up with a preset that appears to work.

Yes, I did notice this right after I did that little test. Upon switching it off the result is much more smooth, so thanks for that little tip;

While I am here, I may as well ask a couple more questions I have regarding the use of a DSLR, seeing as I'm new to it all. Firstly, what would you recommend for lighting? In the live view feed my images look fine (if a little grainy), but in the cinematography window the images are much lighter than from the feed. So I can't really preview my images properly, or is it just a case of trial and error until the desired effect is there, and then begin to animate?

Also, what sort of lenses would you recommend? I'm finding that with this one the background is to blurred for my liking. What sort of lenses are available at a fairly economic price that give a good depth of field?

Again, thanks all for your help, it is greatly appreciated.

I am not too familiar with Live View, because I usually use the viewfinder on my camera. But I have noticed that Live View can be darker and grainier, because it uses a lower quality image to stream through the live view and give you a live feed. If you're not happy with the brightness of the final picture, you can turn down your exposure. It's all about what the final result looks like that counts, not the live view. You may want to look at your Meter on your camera to determine a good exposure. (See this link for more on Metering: http://photographylife.com/understanding-metering-modes The viewfinder isn't the only place to find the meter, though, you can see it on your DSLR screen where you change the exposure. It's that little dashed line)

The depth of field is controlled by the aperture of your camera. If you make the aperture smaller, you will have to change your shutter speed to a slower one, but it will produce a deeper depth of field (meaning the background isn't as blurry). The lower the F/stop, the shallower the Depth of Field. So, you don't need a new lens because your pictures are too blurry. If you're looking to buy a lens anyway, you should get a Macro. It lets your minifigs be closer to the camera while still being in focus. However, I've found that the standard Nikon lens that comes with most camera kits (a 35mm lens) works well.

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